![]() The tool is ground to profile with a copy attachment and the wheel is fed to full depth of cut in a single pass. Here is an example of creep feed grinding where I made a form tool for milling plastic parts. This is also only possible with wheels that don't wear quickly. Almost no grit from the wheel is released to contaminate the work area.Īnothe recent technique is "creep feed grinding" where very deep cuts are taken at low advance rates. Using CBN wheels in profile configuration very little wear occurs to the wheel and it maintains it's shape for a long time. Modern super-abrasives make possible grinding operations that were impossible just a few years ago. There are just as many improvements in abrasive machining in recent years as there have been in cutting tools that make hard turning practical. Grinding IS it's own class of machining called abrasive machining. In any case, a "fine" wheel may still be 80 grit with 60 much more common and 46 often used and still producing surfaces with a better surface finish than milling will typically do. Think of grinding as it's own class of machining.with its own set of stuff to learn. There are all sorts of "grades" of hardness and openness of the wheel material in addition to grit size to consider. This is likely more esoteric than you want to get right now, but as a previous poster mentioned, often an open, friable wheel is the right answer so that the wheel does not load up. Certainly finer wheels often result in a finer surface finish, but overdo it and you end up with a wheel loaded with metal particles which then result in a "galled" surface and a real mess. Just to correct something you said.wheels that produce a fine surface finish are not necessarily "fine". Wheel grit mixed with oil=lapping compound. Even then, you should figure on wiping all way surfaces with kerosene after "untarping" it and then drying them and re-lubricating. Yeah.if you have a toolpost grinder and want to try it on your lathe, be really anal about covering everything. ![]()
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